A break in the journey in Spain

Never get to see enough of Spain, its always a big rush on the way down to get to warmer places, then on the return you just want to get home.
I decided to try another route with a break on the way. I drove from Malaga to Murcia inland passing the big mountains around Granada which has dramatic scenery.



I ended up on the Costa Blanca at Calpe for a few nights. Its a very built up coastline but with lots of rugged bays and hills, a good workout each day on the bike.








Then driving past Valencia to Zaragoza and crossing through the Pyrenees via the Somport tunnel to Pau into France. Suddenly much chillier as there was still snow on the higher mountains.

Now spending the night in  a favourite spot, the lovely small town Vivonne, near Poitiers, where they provide free Camper van parking right in the centre next to an excellent bakery and with free wifi from the adjoining tourist office.

12 hours to travel 20 miles

Almost a whole day of the return journey taken up waiting to leave Morocco and enter Spain through the ports. In Morocco all vehicles have to go through a giant mobile scanner (without the occupants or pets inside) which means only about 5 can be processed at a time. At peak times this can take about 2 hours. Then the ferry was late, as usual, and then took over an hour to load. It was only about an hour for the crossing then on arrival in Algeciras in Spain it took an hour to unload as I was right at the front bulkhead facing the wrong way. Then Spanish customs took another hour checking all the unloading vehicles. I finally got parked up for the night at 11.40pm, just in time for bed.

Suddenly on my way home

I was planning to be here for a while longer but I am now on the way home. Gills friend Sue (and my friend, since I met them both 35 years ago) died on 15th March 2014. They were born 2 days apart and now both of them are no longer here with us. A big gap in my life.
Sue's funeral is on 1st April so I have made the start on my long journey home to be there.
Nine hours travelling has got me a long way North to Kenitra, nearly all on Motorways, but its tiring doing it on your own. I hope to cross back to Spain tomorrow evening on the ferry to Algeciras which will then give me a week to travel back to Dover.

Speeding, How much?

On the final stretch of the journey taking Sandra, Eric & Irene back to Marrakesh for their return flights I was stopped for the first time ever by the Gendarme. I was speeding, doing 69kph in a 60 zone which I had not noticed. They showed me approaching on their hand held camera. After producing all my document I was informed there was a fine of 300Dirham which I got from my wallet. I was asked to get out of the van and go to their patrol car and was shown an official form with 300Dh printed on it. I handed the money over and I was asked if I wanted a receipt, being in a hurry I said no. I was then handed the money back and the Gendarme said ok give me what you want! What to do? I had 3 x 100 notes in my hand so offered him 100Dh, he shook my hand and seemed to want to be my best friend! We were then quickly on our way. So it cost me less than £8.00

Gills Ash Wednesday

Kevan has just given me this picture taken by one on the goat herders. Missing face is Eric!

Friends visiting in Morocco

 Finally, after 5 years wintering in Morocco some friends have come to visit and tour around a bit. Sandra, Eric & Irene all from home are staying with me for 10 days whilst I show them some of the sights Gill & I have spent many times visiting. Also we are scattering some of Gills ashes at a place Gill liked to stop at looking at the wildflowers and the High Atlas mountain range at the start of the pass over the Tizi 'n' Test. Her ashes have been travelling with me since I left home in December in a box of her favourite chocolates, Thorntons Continentals. She would have liked that!

This is a picture of the spot I took of Gill in 2009 (bad hair year) the next year we went back on the same date but there weren't any flowers as there had not been any rain.

The road side has been altered slightly since then but the marker Marrakech 165 and the stripey rock are still there.
On Ash Wednesday six others Kevan & Barbara, Peter & Mary & Philip & Pat friends  we have made in Morocco joined us at the spot to remember Gill with her favourite tipple 'Swill' (Cava) and buns watched by two bemused goat herders.

It was great to have friends from home for a whole 10 days and the van coped very well with all the extra load. Eric & Irene stayed in hotel rooms each night and I slept on the spare van bed a let Sandra have my much more luxurious fixed bed. 

Scary drive over Tizi n Tichka pass

Eric & Peter seemed to get on well

 

Where did all that water come from?

Breakfast at Skoura

Shopping at last!

Sidi Kaouki

Back to Tafraoute

Every journey is so scenic (if you like rocks) 

It's  cold up here though at 1850 metres

Tafroute is always spectacular and now the almond trees are in blossom 

  

                                                                                                                                                             

We cycled out to the Blue Rocks, can you see the Lions face in the rocks behind 

After a long hot walk we ended up in town just in time as the hot doughnut stand was setting up, we were the first customers, our order for 10 cost less than a pound and they tasted great.

19 days in Tata

I have had a good long time here with good company and plenty of walks and bike rides. Its very dry and sometimes dusty when the wind whips up. Last night it rained for about 3 minutes, all that really did was cover the van with sand. Here's a few more pictures from my days here.

Great mountain bike country

It takes a long while to get anywhere here, at least you don't have to worry about the traffic.

There are so many off piste tracks to explore, but it's hot so I go in the morning and carry plenty of water. I usually manage 20-30 miles each day.











Strangely enough I rarely meet anyone else










but this is one of the camels I saw the other day.

It's so dry and barren but then you can go over a hill and come across palms growing next to a dry river bed.













It hardly ever rains here and is hot even in February but there are always things growing. There are water channels that can be directed to water what looks like bare soil and suddenly make the desert green.

My camping place for the last week

Hot at last

I got to my most Southerly place in this trip and I always bring a bottle of this to celebrate.
Oooh that wonderful smell & taste after 2 months of tasteless colds fizz. Great thing is I still have 2 more bottles.

I listened to Burnley v Brighton with Kev a big Burnley fan. We both had our own teams biased commentaries streaming on our laptops. 

First half his was 2minutes ahead of mine, second half mine was ahead. As the result was even I was happier than him as we have already beaten them this season, and at least we are still talking.

The forecast along the coast and a bit inland was for wind & rain for a few days, not what I came to Morocco for. Heading inland eastwards it was looking much better as it is a much more arid region. I decided to head towards Tata where it rarely rains and there are now some good new campsites. Peter & Mary were heading that way so we left and got to a very good new place in the middle of nowhere called borj biramane at Icht. Its a large hotel, restaurant & campsite with good facilities and interesting looking hills & tracks to explore. 

Unfortunately we were on the edge of a sandstorm so there was no sitting outside and the vans were rocking all night. There was a big four wheel drive rally due in with 140 vehicles but in the end only about 50 of them made it through for the night.

The next day dawned sunny & Blue skies and the wind was easing as we headed further East on the single lane paved road. There was very little traffic, mostly stragglers from the rally coming towards us and a couple of mad loaded up touring cyclists having to cycle into the wind. 

Fantastic scenery mostly rocky escarpments arid plains and small oasis palmeries. Seen a few camels today and some interesting birds, don't know what they live on.

At last there is a decent site at Tata, the municipal site in town is horrible, crowded, surrounded by big walls and very run down facilities. We stayed once a few years ago, last time we passed we opted to wild camp about 20 miles out of town rather than stay at that site again. The new place is about 3km West of town, its an Hotel with about 20 camping places with palms and surrounded by small vegetable plots, rosemary & basil plants to help yourself to, very friendly owners and good facilities. 

There are some good off piste trails, perfect for mountain biking, yesterday on my ride 3 camels crossed just in front of me closely followed by their owner who was running trying to keep up with them. There are 4 British vans here so plenty of company and yesterday we all had a very good couscous lunch in the courtyard. The temperature is in the mid 20's everyday with barely a cloud and its very dry heat which dries out the skin but its not sweaty. At night as there a few lights the stars are so bright. I will stay here a while as its such a nice climate and there's good company and more people we know due next week. Fresh peas today, bought in the weekly souk.

Finally moving on away from the coast

So I finally moved on to Sidi Ifni a bit further South down the coast and had a good drive on the newly resurfaced coast. As it was Saturday I wanted to be sure to get the internet football commentary so I parked up on the rough parking next to the site of the weekly souk and got a good strong signal. I listened to the match and nipped out of the van to stock up with fruit & veg at half time. The Seagulls won 3-1 and now progress to the next round of the FA Cup, next match Hull.

I could have stayed on the parking overnight but its quite busy with traffic arriving all evening to set up for the big market. I went and looked down at the beach side camping from the top of the cliffs and saw there were spaces so decided to drive down there and stay the night. Walking through the town it was noticeable how the attractive Art Deco style buildings had been restored and smartened up. Also I remember we found quite a good bun shop there so I stocked up with a good supply for the next few days.

The camping was much more interesting than where I have spent the last 2 weeks, many more different nationalities, surfers and different looking vans. I only stayed the one night as I was heading a bit further South to meet up with Kevan & Barbara & Peter & Mary and 3 other vans with them at an inland site South East of Guelmim.

I was looking forward to having a few folk to sit around and chat with and the odd bike ride with some company but when I arrived they were nearly all sick, I was almost tempted not to stop in case I caught something. It turned out they had all had a meal with the campsite owner and got sick from the sardines or possibly salad they had eaten. Fortunately it seems to have been a 24 hours bug and they are much better today.

Its a small site set next to a Palmerie, much more desert like and loads of great tracks to get out and explore on the bikes, though not very hilly close by. Much more the type of Morocco I like rather than the busier coast and much quieter without the constant crashing Atlantic waves that I have been next to for the last two weeks. 

There was quite a lot of rain here about a week ago and things are starting to turn a bit greener which I'm sure the donkeys, goats and sheep are happier about.

Aglou Plage life

Kevan and Barbara emailed and said they were at Sidi Wassay about a 30 mile drive back up towards Agadir. I decided to have a change of scenery and visit them there for a few hours. They are travelling with 2 other vans who are also on their first visit to Morocco, so I got to meet them all. Whilst looking out the front of their van I recognized a German number plate of the van belonging to Karl & Helga, an older German couple that we have met on various sites around Morocco and we spent our last day of our last Morocco trip with them in Martil on the Med coast. Obviously their first question was where is Gill, so I had to explain what had happened as I will have to do to a few others whom I no doubt will meet later on.

The site here is now completely full, unfortunately everyone who turns up is French and I have no one to talk to. I have been out on my bike though doing 20 mile rides in 3 directions, the other is the sea. Time to move on soon, I have made use of the washing machine today once I finally managed to get one. Another reason to leave is the paint fumes. French drivers must be bad as so many of them are getting the paintwork resprayed, mostly their colour matching bumpers. The problem is the man comes to their pitch with his compressor and does the job there, so if its nearby you get all the noise and the paint fumes. One van opposite had it done for 5 days in a row, luckily the wind was blowing away from me. Now today my neighbour is having some done and it is blowing my way. They're not all bad though, tonight one French man at the washing up sinks told me, and showed me, that I could get Hot water from the disabled toilet as the washing up sinks only have cold. Actually more of a surprise is that even have disabled toilets.

Internet connecting and a new gadget

Trying to find a signal to get an internet I took my Nexus tablet near to the reception and saw a hotspot for Peter Smith. As everyone else here has a name like Freddy French I figured it must be Peter & Mary,whom I knew were heading here. I put on my Wi-Fi analyser App and followed the strengthening signal to their van, well I assumed at it was their van as it had GB plates. As it was late they were all closed up for the night. In the morning their van had gone, luckily the empty pitch still had their chairs & mats left behind so I knew they had gone out for the day and we met up later in the day.

I took along some of the Essaouria buns in Gill's memory. Peter & Mary like their gadgets and I found the answer to my internet problems, a TP-Link Portable 3g wireless router. With this I could connect my laptop, tablet & phone through my own personal router, all at once if want to! Being in Morocco at the front of the campsite there are various tradesmen, Solar panels, re-sprays & repairs, satellite dishes, windscreen covers, outdoor carpets and anything a motorhome may need. Within a couple of hours the wi-fi man was at my pitch setting me up with my own portable router and at last I could get back in contact & even share my connection with others if I want to.

I have been testing my solar panel to see how long it will keep my leisure batteries powered without having to connect to the the electric supply and without driving which will recharge them. After 6 nights everything was functioning, despite the poor, wet & overcast weather, so I was very pleased and with sunnier days forecast I should be able to stay off grid for plenty of days when I want to.

Steve & Jan decided to head off back North slowly exploring places on their way. They were very glad to have me show them the ropes and I was glad of their company for the first few days and also giving me a look back to how it feels and and the new experiences and encounters that happen when you go somewhere new and a bit different. After 4 days of following the back of my van I am sure they will enjoy seeing a different view but they will have to spot the endless Police checkpoints and the dodgy road surfaces without my braking warnings.

First few days in Morocco

Well I am finally in contact from Morocco where I have already been for a week.

I met up with Steve & Jan at Lidl in Algeciras and we bought our ferry tickets from Carlos and got the usual gift of a cake & bottle of cider. My ticket (190 Euros) was 10 Euro cheaper than theirs as I was only one passenger.

Next morning at the ferry terminal we found we had been given tickets for different ferry lines and mine was due to sail an hour later, so much for being on hand to help them on their first entry to Morocco. In the end both ferries were late and I arrived at the customs about 5 vehicles behind them at Tanger Med port and I was processed about 30 minutes after them.

We drove on to Asilah and arrived mid afternoon so had plenty of time time amble around the easy going town and have a meal and experience Moroccan life. Parking is on waste land next to the harbour with no facilities but the parking guardian wanted 50Dh,(5 Euros) or some items like alcohol or clothes to exchange, many campsites are cheaper!

We then headed to El Jadida on the motorway getting experience of mad Moroccan driving and unfortunately it started raining, many cars didn't have lights, some didn't even have windows that closed and they were weaving all over the road, luckily as the Motorways are toll road there isn't too much traffic but it's very tiring driving and checking the mirrors constantly is essential.

There was a very helpful man in the Maroc Telecom shop who spoke English and got our 3g dongles sorted out to connect to the internet and even set them up on our laptops. The only problem was the next time I turned my laptop on and connected Windows Vista came up with the Blue screen of death, showing a startup driver problem. I tried every trick I know, safe mode, restore from last successful connection point, but still no success. (Pacer.sys) seems to be the problem if anyone knows how to sort it out) I also have Linux operating system installed on the laptop and I could see all my data on the hard drive was still there. Unfortunately Linux could not see the 3g dongle as the install programme is written for Windows. As my Nexus android tablet is rooted I could connect the dongle and this worked ok for an evening but after that I couldn't get a connection. I had three frustrating days trying to get connected in different locations but no success.

El Jadida campsite is just the same, a good tree shaded site but poor basic facilities, squat toilets, open drain for toilet emptying and general neglect, but for 4 euros better value than parking at Asilah and the option to also pay extra for electric hookup if required.

We then headed to Essaouria on the inland road which was quite hectic for the first couple of hours mainly with buses & taxis trying to overtake everyone usually at the most dangerous point. There is often a solid white line down the centre of the road but it's mostly ignored. Whenever we passed through a town it was the usual chaos, pedestrians just cross without looking, carts, bikes, motorbikes all over the place but we survived intact.

Essaouria is always windy but when we arrived it was awful, sand blowing everywhere and stinging our eyes. Sadly the convenient campsite next to the lighthouse at the end of the promenade has been reduced in size as part of the land is having apartments being built on. We battled the wind walking into the town and had a quick look around the main attractions but it wasn't very comfortable, but I did stock up with 'the best buns in Morocco' from Gill's favourite cake shop. Unfortunately the good Italian restaurant we had found on our last visit hadn't opened but we found a good Moroccan place near the ramparts. Due to the weather we decided to continue on further South and headed towards Agadir on the coast road.

Aglou Plage camping has been my main first location to get settled for a week or two and we found a wonderful new dual carriageway from the South of Agadir almost all the way to Tiznit where we headed West to the coast. The site surprisingly wasn't full, though it is almost now.

The weather for the last 4 days has been very unsettled, stormy with heavy rain but very mild. Not like my dream of sitting basking in the sun and unwinding after the long drive down Morocco. I had a wind out awning fitted to the van in Seville but its not safe to leave it out unattended with the erratic weather.

Leaving Portugal after one month

I don't know where the time goes, I have been here a month and mostly the weather has been much better than I expected. I am now making plans to head off to Morocco, I will leave here on Friday, meet up on Saturday with a couple from York, Jan & Steve whom I met here before Christmas, and they will cross to Morocco with me as its their first time there and are happy to have someone show them the ropes. We will get the ferry on Sunday morning and hopefully get to somewhere on the coast before dark.

Kevan & Barbara and Peter & Mary are now in Morocco and we will all meet up for a while soon. I will head South fairly quickly to get some hot weather, maybe stopping in Essaouria for a few days if the weather is ok. It's been good to be in the same place for a while, I meet other people and I have had time to sort the van to my liking and get used to doing everything by myself, though its still strange and quiet!

I am looking forward to getting on the road again, I’ve only moved the van twice in a month. My bike has been great for getting small batches of shopping, though my pump got nicked outside a supermarket in town the other day. Also managed quite a lot of rides, certainly a lot more than I would have done at home in wet, cold weather. Luckily the Algarve has missed all the stormy weather although just looking a few miles inland North from here it always seems very dark & gloomy.

A Happier New Year

Well Christmas & New Year have passed and I have been waiting for some rain to force me indoors and update the blog. It was very good having a visitor to share the Christmas week with, though neither of us particularly like it, so we could be miseries together. It's just nice to have someone you know to interact with through the day and to share some experiences. It's also better than going out and eating on ones own. We got adventurous one day and caught a train to Lagos, West along the coast. It wasn't much of a train ride,almost 2 hours each way with constant stops and little nice scenery. Lagos was a pleasant town with a beach and cliffs and real sea but 5 hours there were plenty enough.

Another much more successful trip was on a short ferry trip to one of the sand islands Armona on a beautiful calm sunny day. There are no roads there, just an area of holiday bungalows and a few restaurants. From there its just long stretches of unspoilt sandy beaches as it's all part of the coastal nature reserve. It would be a wonderful place for a relaxing hideaway, but only a 30 minute ferry trip back to Olhao.

After I dropped Lynne off at the airport I drove to get a coffee at Faro beach which is just behind the runway. I saw the most strange sight, a man with a motorhome was parked next to the airport perimeter fence and was outside playing a full drum kit! I guess he wouldn't upset anyone with the noise. I wish I had been cheeky enough to take a photo. It kept puzzling me all night, so next day I cycled back there but he was gone, but I did find a good track to cycle all around the perimeter fence back almost to Faro and clocked up 28 miles.

New Years eve there was a meal and dancing in the campsite bar, I wandered down and joined up with some company sat outside under the canopy which was just as well as we had some heavy downpours. There were fireworks going off and I stayed to see in the New Year and even got kissed by a French woman (though she was going around kissing everyone)

New Years day was very quiet, all shops shut and very few Café’s open, luckily I still had some bread left.