Back to Tafraoute

Every journey is so scenic (if you like rocks) 

It's  cold up here though at 1850 metres

Tafroute is always spectacular and now the almond trees are in blossom 

  

                                                                                                                                                             

We cycled out to the Blue Rocks, can you see the Lions face in the rocks behind 

After a long hot walk we ended up in town just in time as the hot doughnut stand was setting up, we were the first customers, our order for 10 cost less than a pound and they tasted great.

19 days in Tata

I have had a good long time here with good company and plenty of walks and bike rides. Its very dry and sometimes dusty when the wind whips up. Last night it rained for about 3 minutes, all that really did was cover the van with sand. Here's a few more pictures from my days here.

Great mountain bike country

It takes a long while to get anywhere here, at least you don't have to worry about the traffic.

There are so many off piste tracks to explore, but it's hot so I go in the morning and carry plenty of water. I usually manage 20-30 miles each day.











Strangely enough I rarely meet anyone else










but this is one of the camels I saw the other day.

It's so dry and barren but then you can go over a hill and come across palms growing next to a dry river bed.













It hardly ever rains here and is hot even in February but there are always things growing. There are water channels that can be directed to water what looks like bare soil and suddenly make the desert green.

My camping place for the last week

Hot at last

I got to my most Southerly place in this trip and I always bring a bottle of this to celebrate.
Oooh that wonderful smell & taste after 2 months of tasteless colds fizz. Great thing is I still have 2 more bottles.

I listened to Burnley v Brighton with Kev a big Burnley fan. We both had our own teams biased commentaries streaming on our laptops. 

First half his was 2minutes ahead of mine, second half mine was ahead. As the result was even I was happier than him as we have already beaten them this season, and at least we are still talking.

The forecast along the coast and a bit inland was for wind & rain for a few days, not what I came to Morocco for. Heading inland eastwards it was looking much better as it is a much more arid region. I decided to head towards Tata where it rarely rains and there are now some good new campsites. Peter & Mary were heading that way so we left and got to a very good new place in the middle of nowhere called borj biramane at Icht. Its a large hotel, restaurant & campsite with good facilities and interesting looking hills & tracks to explore. 

Unfortunately we were on the edge of a sandstorm so there was no sitting outside and the vans were rocking all night. There was a big four wheel drive rally due in with 140 vehicles but in the end only about 50 of them made it through for the night.

The next day dawned sunny & Blue skies and the wind was easing as we headed further East on the single lane paved road. There was very little traffic, mostly stragglers from the rally coming towards us and a couple of mad loaded up touring cyclists having to cycle into the wind. 

Fantastic scenery mostly rocky escarpments arid plains and small oasis palmeries. Seen a few camels today and some interesting birds, don't know what they live on.

At last there is a decent site at Tata, the municipal site in town is horrible, crowded, surrounded by big walls and very run down facilities. We stayed once a few years ago, last time we passed we opted to wild camp about 20 miles out of town rather than stay at that site again. The new place is about 3km West of town, its an Hotel with about 20 camping places with palms and surrounded by small vegetable plots, rosemary & basil plants to help yourself to, very friendly owners and good facilities. 

There are some good off piste trails, perfect for mountain biking, yesterday on my ride 3 camels crossed just in front of me closely followed by their owner who was running trying to keep up with them. There are 4 British vans here so plenty of company and yesterday we all had a very good couscous lunch in the courtyard. The temperature is in the mid 20's everyday with barely a cloud and its very dry heat which dries out the skin but its not sweaty. At night as there a few lights the stars are so bright. I will stay here a while as its such a nice climate and there's good company and more people we know due next week. Fresh peas today, bought in the weekly souk.

Finally moving on away from the coast

So I finally moved on to Sidi Ifni a bit further South down the coast and had a good drive on the newly resurfaced coast. As it was Saturday I wanted to be sure to get the internet football commentary so I parked up on the rough parking next to the site of the weekly souk and got a good strong signal. I listened to the match and nipped out of the van to stock up with fruit & veg at half time. The Seagulls won 3-1 and now progress to the next round of the FA Cup, next match Hull.

I could have stayed on the parking overnight but its quite busy with traffic arriving all evening to set up for the big market. I went and looked down at the beach side camping from the top of the cliffs and saw there were spaces so decided to drive down there and stay the night. Walking through the town it was noticeable how the attractive Art Deco style buildings had been restored and smartened up. Also I remember we found quite a good bun shop there so I stocked up with a good supply for the next few days.

The camping was much more interesting than where I have spent the last 2 weeks, many more different nationalities, surfers and different looking vans. I only stayed the one night as I was heading a bit further South to meet up with Kevan & Barbara & Peter & Mary and 3 other vans with them at an inland site South East of Guelmim.

I was looking forward to having a few folk to sit around and chat with and the odd bike ride with some company but when I arrived they were nearly all sick, I was almost tempted not to stop in case I caught something. It turned out they had all had a meal with the campsite owner and got sick from the sardines or possibly salad they had eaten. Fortunately it seems to have been a 24 hours bug and they are much better today.

Its a small site set next to a Palmerie, much more desert like and loads of great tracks to get out and explore on the bikes, though not very hilly close by. Much more the type of Morocco I like rather than the busier coast and much quieter without the constant crashing Atlantic waves that I have been next to for the last two weeks. 

There was quite a lot of rain here about a week ago and things are starting to turn a bit greener which I'm sure the donkeys, goats and sheep are happier about.

Aglou Plage life

Kevan and Barbara emailed and said they were at Sidi Wassay about a 30 mile drive back up towards Agadir. I decided to have a change of scenery and visit them there for a few hours. They are travelling with 2 other vans who are also on their first visit to Morocco, so I got to meet them all. Whilst looking out the front of their van I recognized a German number plate of the van belonging to Karl & Helga, an older German couple that we have met on various sites around Morocco and we spent our last day of our last Morocco trip with them in Martil on the Med coast. Obviously their first question was where is Gill, so I had to explain what had happened as I will have to do to a few others whom I no doubt will meet later on.

The site here is now completely full, unfortunately everyone who turns up is French and I have no one to talk to. I have been out on my bike though doing 20 mile rides in 3 directions, the other is the sea. Time to move on soon, I have made use of the washing machine today once I finally managed to get one. Another reason to leave is the paint fumes. French drivers must be bad as so many of them are getting the paintwork resprayed, mostly their colour matching bumpers. The problem is the man comes to their pitch with his compressor and does the job there, so if its nearby you get all the noise and the paint fumes. One van opposite had it done for 5 days in a row, luckily the wind was blowing away from me. Now today my neighbour is having some done and it is blowing my way. They're not all bad though, tonight one French man at the washing up sinks told me, and showed me, that I could get Hot water from the disabled toilet as the washing up sinks only have cold. Actually more of a surprise is that even have disabled toilets.

Internet connecting and a new gadget

Trying to find a signal to get an internet I took my Nexus tablet near to the reception and saw a hotspot for Peter Smith. As everyone else here has a name like Freddy French I figured it must be Peter & Mary,whom I knew were heading here. I put on my Wi-Fi analyser App and followed the strengthening signal to their van, well I assumed at it was their van as it had GB plates. As it was late they were all closed up for the night. In the morning their van had gone, luckily the empty pitch still had their chairs & mats left behind so I knew they had gone out for the day and we met up later in the day.

I took along some of the Essaouria buns in Gill's memory. Peter & Mary like their gadgets and I found the answer to my internet problems, a TP-Link Portable 3g wireless router. With this I could connect my laptop, tablet & phone through my own personal router, all at once if want to! Being in Morocco at the front of the campsite there are various tradesmen, Solar panels, re-sprays & repairs, satellite dishes, windscreen covers, outdoor carpets and anything a motorhome may need. Within a couple of hours the wi-fi man was at my pitch setting me up with my own portable router and at last I could get back in contact & even share my connection with others if I want to.

I have been testing my solar panel to see how long it will keep my leisure batteries powered without having to connect to the the electric supply and without driving which will recharge them. After 6 nights everything was functioning, despite the poor, wet & overcast weather, so I was very pleased and with sunnier days forecast I should be able to stay off grid for plenty of days when I want to.

Steve & Jan decided to head off back North slowly exploring places on their way. They were very glad to have me show them the ropes and I was glad of their company for the first few days and also giving me a look back to how it feels and and the new experiences and encounters that happen when you go somewhere new and a bit different. After 4 days of following the back of my van I am sure they will enjoy seeing a different view but they will have to spot the endless Police checkpoints and the dodgy road surfaces without my braking warnings.